Copyright - Things That Go - 2016
This particular install is a drum brake limited-slip Ford Explorer 8.8 axle into a 1992 Chevy S10 4X4 Blazer.
Generally a rear axle change is pretty simple; U-bolts, park brake cables, hydraulic brake line, shocks, drive shaft and vent tube. And ABS if equipped. This vehicle has rear ABS but is being removed so I will not concern myself with that.
Removal of the S-truck rear axle, condensed.
- After blocking the rear of the truck up with the wheels removed, remove the brake drums and detach the park brake cable. The cable pops into the backing plate and is retained by 3 prongs. To remove, grab the cable from behind and pull to one side. Take a regular size flat blade screwdriver and press each of the prongs in to release it's grip, twist the cable as you release each prong until it pulls out the back of the backing plate.
- Remove the drive shaft bolts at the rear end and pry the drive shaft out from the yoke with a large screw driver. Place a pan under the tail shaft of the transmission and pull the drive shaft out.
- Remove the vent tube from the axle housing.
- Remove the ABS harness from the body if equipped.
- Remove the metal brake lines from the flex hose junction and remove the fitting from the housing and plug the hose to stop the brake fluid leaking.
- Remove the lower shock nuts and pull the shocks off the studs.
- Now you just have the leaf spring U-bolts left. These are usually rusted and you won't be reusing them. If possible, it's best to simply cut them off. A cut-off wheel or oxy/acetylene torch works best.
- Optionally you can remove the rear leaf spring shackles. This makes it much easier to pull the rear end out and place the new one in position. The 8.8 rear end is MUCH heavier than the Chevy 10 bolt, and if you don't have someone strong to help it can be very challenging to slide it out the side over the leaf springs.
Now clean up the top of the leaf spring where the axle rests. An air sander will clean off the rust quickly.
Installing a Ford Explorer rear end into an S10 - 4
The spring perch locating holes need to be elongated. Some people say they just pull the leaf springs over and the axle will drop down over the pins, but I don't like running the springs with side pressure on the bushings, they should be relaxed with the axle resting over the pins. You will need to elongate the holes to the center of the axle housing by 1/2". I used a high speed die grinder. I STRONGLY suggest using a high quality cutting tip, like a Snap-On. I tried a Home Depot brand and it just didn't cut easily. The Snap-On cut through like the steel was plastic. PLEASE WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES AND GLOVES! The metal coming off is metal shards and will embed themselves in your skin very easily!
This bit has done the 8 spring plate holes & the 2 spring perch holes and still looks brand new!
If you are wanting to use your wheels then you will have to remove and drill a new wheel bolt pattern into the axles.
Before placing the 8.8 on the leaf springs, cut off the lower part of the anti-sway bar brackets at the back of the axle, or remove it completely, they will hit the shocks. I did a rough cut and later cleaned it up after ensuring all was well.
The U-bolt holes in the Chevy spring plates will need to be elongated just under 3/8". The holes should be extended outwards at a 45º angle. Use the new U-bolts as a gauge to see when you have gone far enough. This will allow the U-bolts to sit square on the axle tube. Some people have used the Explorer spring plates. This saves elongating the holes but requires welding shock mounts in place.
